A Wannabe-Local’s Guide to Tulum
I have lived in Denver most of my life. We moved to the suburbs from NJ when I was only 10 years and have basically lived here ever since. Well, there was a quick stint (two years) in Des Moines, IA for college but that’s for a different day.
Point being, I have always wanted to live somewhere else but have never gotten the guts to do it and Denver really is one of those places that is hard to leave. It’s so beautiful.
So if you’re reading this and asking if we moved to Mexico, the answer is no. But it was the closest I’ve ever been to being somewhere else for a whole month and I would never take it for granted. This post is a full breakdown of all the things we were able to do and explore during our time in February.
I love this little beach town that is ever-expanding by the day.
Please note (because a lot of you have asked), we were able to take our dog because she is an emotional support dog and were able to travel with her before restrictions were in place starting March 1st. Check with your airline to see if you are able to do this before you book anything in the future.
Where to Stay
There’s a bunch of places to stay in Tulum, it just depends on what you are looking for on your vacation. I’ve been here a few times and have had the luxury of staying on the beach, at an inclusive resort, and most recently an Airbnb. This time around, we wanted to stay in town to be closer to food and be a little more affordable than the beach hotels.
Airbnb: When traveling for an extended period of time or abroad, I tend to choose this option. We save money on eating at home, have our own space, and are able to walk around in local neighborhoods a lot easier. We were in between staying in Aldea Zama (ex-pat central) or La Valeta (modern but also local). Here’s the place we stayed for the month and I’m so glad we chose where we did! It was close to town (just a 10-15 minute walk) close enough to get to the beach (10-15 drive), but still quiet.
Beach Hotels: I have stayed at Kai Hotel and Amansala Resort on the hotel side of the beach in Tulum. Both were really great, but served totally different purposes. Teddy and I went to Kai for a relaxing long weekend, which was wonderful, and I co-hosted a fitness and yoga retreat at Amansala. There’s a ton of hotels on the strip. Do some research to figure out what vibe you are looking for!
All-inclusive Resort: I stayed at Dreams Resort last winter and thought it was great for an all-inclusive. I’m not usually one to choose these types of places, but if you’re looking to chill and stay in one spot for the entirety of your stay with a couple excursions thrown in, this is the place for you.
What to do
What is not to do?! We rented a car so I was on a mission to get up early and explore with no one else around us nearly everyday. It was my goal to see some beautiful cenotes around Tulum and enjoy a lot of beach time. Goal: achieved.
Where to Swim
Sometimes I think I was a mermaid in a previous life. I’ve always loved the water and swimming. Teddy and I even got certified in scuba diving a few years ago and have been to Belize, Bali and now Mexico diving in the sea! We checked off 12 cenotes, a couple bays, beaches, and a lagoon. There were so many chances to see fresh and saltwater; we got a taste of all kinds.
My tips: go early (like right when they open), bring your snorkeling gear, and prepare yourself for the cold showers beforehand.
A cenote is a natural pit, or sinkhole, resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes groundwater. There’s over 6,000 known cenotes in the Yucatán peninsula of Mexico! Check out my Instagram post for photos of each of them.
CARWASH CENOTE: This easily accessible cenote has a large open air pool which is just off the main Tulum to Coba road. It’s surrounded by lush green vegetation, and a variety of wildlife lives within its waters. Swimming and snorkeling are popular at the cenote and its deep waters and large cave also attract divers.
GRAN CENOTE: A large and popular Cenote close to Tulum. It’s made up of caves, caverns and open air areas. It has crystal clear waters filled with fish and turtles.
DOS OJOS: Cenote Dos Ojos is one of the most popular cenotes in the area. It is a great snorkeling and dive site with amazing visibility through the constant 77º water.
CENOTE MULTUN-HA/TANKACH-HA (Coba): The entrance to the cenote consists of walking down a spiral staircase 60 feet underground to the crystal-clear waters and beautiful cavern. Tankach-ha, means in Mayan language “deep water”. The underground cenotes water depth goes from 14 to 114ft deep. It also has two high jump platforms if you’re looking for an adrenalin rush.
CASA CENOTE: An open-air cenote surrounded by mangroves and trees. The water is crystal clear and 18 feet deep at its deepest point. It’s the perfect place to snorkel and scuba dive, full of marine life and even a friendly crocodile “Ponchito”. *favorite
CENOTE CALAVERA: A “cantaro” type of cenote where the roof has broken away to reveal the water below. There is one main large hole that opens up into the cenote and two smaller holes only big enough for one person at a time to jump in.
CENOTE AZUL: A large “L” shaped open cenote. It’s a mix of shallow and deeper parts as well as a cliff jump area. Cenote Cristalino is right next to Azul and is also a larger open-air cenote. It is surrounded by mangroves.
CENOTE SANTA CRUZ: A hidden oasis on the road to Coba. Crystal clear blue water with plenty of fish and a few turtles to swim with. It is an open air cenote shaped like a large letter O with a seating area in the center. It’s very quiet during the week and earlier in the day. There is a restaurant on site with a great buffet option. *favorite
CENOTE CORAZON: An open-air cenote in the shape of a heart. The water is crystal clear, full of different fish and even has some underwater caves you can dive down and explore. There is even a raised platform to jump into the water from. The cenote has plenty of platforms to lay out on, chairs and tables for snacking and chilling, drinks and snacks for sale. *favorite
SIAN KA’AN RESEVE: In the language of the Mayan peoples who once inhabited this region, Sian Ka'an means “Origin of the Sky.” The biosphere reserve contains tropical forests, mangroves and marshes, as well as a large marine section intersected by a barrier reef. It is home to thousands of species of flora and fauna, which is why the region became a designated Biosphere Reserve in 1986.
LAGOON KA’AN LUUM: Featuring a variety of light and dark blue water that is warm all year long due to the shallow depth. You can visit every day and you will find mostly locals as tourists usually don’t know about this place at all.
Other Adventures
ATV, Zipline, Snorkel: There’s so many people selling these on the beach, in town, and at a resort. We have gone on several tours involving both ATV, ziplining, and snorkeling all in one. To be honest, I’ve loved every single one of them. I’m an adrenaline junkie so I’m all about adventure.
Scuba Diving: There’s several shops in town that offer this but we always wanted to go with a personal dive master so we could have a personal experience and not be in contact with too many people. If you need our dive master’s name, comment below and I’ll send it over!
I should mention that a lot of the work I do is online so I am able to work from anywhere, which is why I’m adding these spots to this part of this section. While I love to see and explore, my clients are always on my mind!
Where to work
Digital Jungle (La Veleta): Super cute vibe-y place more towards the outskirts of town. It’s an indoor/outdoor space where you pay for the day/week/month. It’s a coffee shop with some food options as well.
Mezzanine (Beach): There's a minimum, but it was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been able to work. The views are insane. I could show you a picture but it definitely wouldn’t do it justice. And the food is incredible, but that’s for a later section.
Hotel Bardo (Town): I didn’t actually go here but I heard really great things from a few local friends. It’s a great atmosphere and great for locals (or wannabe’s like myself).
What to Eat
This whole section could be it’s own blog post. Nearly every morning, we had breakfast and lunch at our place. There’s a grocery store in town called Chedraui that had all the things we needed, but the food in Tulum is SO freakin’ good. Out of the several times I’ve been there, the list could be endless, so I wanted to have my top favorites on the list for you to check out for yourself!
Breakfast
TUNICH: A really good shop on the jungle side of the beach with great coffee and easy breakfast dishes both American and Mexican style.
LA PUBETA: Cute spot right in the neighborhood of La Valeta. I still dream about the pastries dipped in my coffee.
BURRITO AMOR: At first I didn’t understand the hype, and then we went five times throughout the month: breakfast, lunch and dinners. Some of my favorite days were going to cenotes and then grabbing a breakfast burrito from here. They also have great juices and smoothies!
Tacos
BEST TACOS IN TULUM (yes, that is the name of the cart: SEO is poppin’ baby): It’s just a cart right in La Valeta and they also have tortas. Seriously they are awesome and so cheap.
ANTOJITOS LA CHIAPANECA: Packed with locals and tourists alike all day long but when you sit down for an al pastor taco or a chicken torta you understand why. It doesn’t hurt that its cheap cheap either.
EL CARBONCITO: Another local taqueria known for their al pastor and carne asada. Come early and grab a table outside and enjoy delicious tacos for ridiculously low prices.
TACO HONORIO: Hands down the best tacos in town. They are so good that they rarely stay open until close because they run out of food. Come early with an empty stomach for their slow-roasted cochinita pibil but don’t sleep on the Lechon Al Horno (it was Teddy’s favorite taco in town).
Dinner
CANOVA (pasta/pizza): A hidden Italian gem in the La Valeta neighborhood. Sure, Posada Margherita on the beach is amazing, but this place is half the price and has such a mom-and-pop shop vibe. Get there early, it does get really busy!
MEZZANINE (Thai): We ate here for breakfast, dinner, and happy hour! The food is awesome and the views couldn’t be better. Get the crispy money bags and chicken dumplings.
HABITAS (beach pricey): This was our final meal of the month and we ended with a bang! If you like octopus and want something a little fancier, go here!
SABOR DEL MAR (seafood): I think this was my favorite meal the entire time. The towers and tacos are so good I’ve been daydreaming about the fresh tuna for a week now.
EL CAMILLO, JR. (ceviche): The biggest ceviche you ever did see. Plus the shrimp and rice combo is so simple but so good. Go hungry!
Gelato
ALDO’S: Honestly, it’s gelato so it’s amazing. Get a waffle cone because how do you go to an ice cream shop and get it in a cup!?
CAMPENELLA: Coconut was my favorite but the stracciatella is second on the list for sure. There’s also a couple locations so they are easy to get what you’re craving after dinner!
It was the best and I can’t wait to hopefully be able to explore a little more later this year!